The advice page is made up of information compiled by the Equine Manager - Ros from Hillcrest Animal Hospital in conjunction with Jigsaw, whose input is to offer advise to horse and pony owners.  This advice will enable them to ensure that their animal will be treated in a comfortable, calm and successful manner and how to achieve this with any necessary follow up treatments and procedures. 

Here are some simple tips on how to help your vet to help your horse recover from their illness.

• Keep your horse calm and confident by: the owner being comfortable with what is happening;
• Ask the vet what will happen;
• Discuss how to keep the horse calm and tell the vet of any previous problems with treatments;
• If the owner may become tense and transmit these feelings to the horse it may be better for someone else to handle the horse - everyone will be safe as long as everyone avoids adrenalin buzzes!

Ground Work - General good horse handling practices if carried out daily will prepare the horse and owner to present a calm patient who will be comfortable and easy to treat. Being able to report to your vet any changes in your horses general well-being and routine will help the vet to reach a correct diagnosis.

• Have a regular watering and feeding regime. Horses need clean water to be accessible at all times and need regular feeding which is appropriate to size, type and exercise levels;
• Be aware of any changes in the above;
• Be aware of any changes in behaviour;
• Be aware of any physical changes.

Record all these details when your horse is normal so that you can record and report any changes to the vet.

Equine Passports

All horses need to have a passport.  The best time to have the form or chart filled in would be at a visit by the vet combined with something else i.e. vaccinations or teeth etc.

For processing, the forms can be sent to a particular breed society that the owner may be registered with.  Otherwise they can be sent to the British Horse Society for processing (they seem to be going to be dealing with anyone who is not registered with a society or just have hacking ponies etc).

Hillcrest Animal Hospital, Water Street, Chorley, Lancashire, PR7 1EX have the forms that the British Horse Society send out.  They also have a list of the 50+ breed societies approved by DEFRA which they can pass on to clients.

Owners do have the option of filling in the forms themselves, but do have to take the responsibility for them being correct.

Alternatively they can send their vaccination card off, if it has a chart on it that has previously been filled in by a veterinary surgeon for scanning.  This will be the only document that will be accepted.  PLEASE NOTE THAT PHOTOCOPIES WILL NOT BE ACCEPTED.  You need to copy your certificate and send off the original.  Also no liquid paper or coverings will be accepted.  (There is a risk that the vaccination certificate may get lost in the post or with the society, clauses are put on the forms to say they do not accept responsibility for anything going missing.  You could send recorded delivery to and from).

Foals will have to have a passport by the age of 6 months.  If the foal is moved off the premises it was born on or sold, it will have to have a passport before it is moved.

All imported horses will have to have a passport within 30 days of arriving in this country, unless they already have one from another EU country or they are leaving this country again within 30 days.

On receipt of the passport there will be a declaration for the owner to sign re whether the horse will be intended for human consumption.  If it is, then a record will have to be kept of any medications that the animal has ever been given.  If the owner says not going for Human Consumption then records do not need to be kept.

If a change of ownership occurs then the new owner will have to update the declaration stating his/her intentions.
 

Foaling - What You Need To Know

Breeding from your mare is both exciting and an anxious time. It is important that you are able to recognise the start of foaling (labour) and its different stages. You can then enjoy the experience, reassured that you know what to do if problems occur.

How Long Is Pregnancy?

In horses the average pregnancy (gestation period) is 342 days (approximately 11 months) but can range between 321 to 365 days.

How Can I Prepare for the Birth?

Your Mare
During pregnancy, your mare will require special attention. Ensure that her feet are trimmed regularly and do not allow her to become overweight - regular paddock exercise in late pregnancy is essential.

It is good practice for your mare to have booster vaccinations 1 month before foaling. This ensures that the first milk (colostrum) contains high levels of antibodies, protecting the foal against disease during the first weeks of life. It is extremely important that the foal receives the colostrum, therefore if milk is seen dripping from the udder before foaling, collect it in a clean container and freeze. If your mare has foaled previously and her vulva had to be stitched, these stitches must be removed at least 2 weeks before the expected foaling date. It may be necessary for your vet to open the vulva surgically if it has been stitched excessively.

Where To Foal

Move your mare to the foaling premises at least 6 weeks before she is due to foal. Provide a clean, safe quiet environment, preferably a large box. Use clean straw bedding - it does not cling to the wet newborn foal.
Alternatively, although less ideal as the actual foaling may be missed, use a small clean grassy paddock. Make sure that fences are secure and that there are no ditches or wet areas.

Other Things To Remember

Keep your vets phone number to hand. Have a watch, pen and paper to record accurately the time of each stage of labour - this information will be important if veterinary assistance is needed later. Have a bucker of clean, warm water and antiseptic soap ready. You will also need to bandage your mare's tail when the first stage of labour begins to keep the hairs out of the way.

How Will I Know When My Mare Is Starting To Foal

There are important clues which can alert you to the approach of foaling. However, some mares will only show a few of these signs and some will show none at all. The first signs can appear several days and even weeks before the actual delivery.

• The udder begins to fill with milk up to 2-4 weeks before foaling, so watch for any signs of enlargement;
• Relaxation of the birth opening (vulva) and birth canal (pelvic canal/ligaments), making the mare's tail longer, can occur a few days before foaling;
• Enlargement of the teats (nipples) occurs 4-6 days before foaling;
• A clear waxy secretion ('waxing') on the teats can appear 1-4 days before foaling and occasionally dripping of milk will be seen;
• Your mare may be nervous and restless and show signs similar to that seen with mild colic.

Most mares foal either late at night or in the early hours of the morning, so be prepared for some sleepless nights.

Does My Vet Need To Be Present

It is advisable to ask your vet to examine your mare in the last few weeks of pregnancy. However, your vet only needs to be present during the foaling if problems occur (see later). Foaling is a rapid process and difficulties arise quickly. It is essential that you can detect the signs of abnormality promptly. However, do not interfere excessively during the early stages of labour - watch quietly from a distance. If you have no prior experience of foaling, ask a friend who has to help you, or consider sending your mare to a stud farm to foal.

What happens During Foaling?

Foaling is divided into 3 stages.

Stage 1 - labour begins
Womb contractions begin, and the birth canal opens ready for the foal to pass through. Signs you may observe are:

• Restlessness
• Signs like colic, e.g. flank watching, pawing
• Sweating
• Frequent passage of small quantities of manure

This stage can last about an hour. Do not disturb the mare during this time - have as few people present as possible. Stage 1 ends with the 'breaking of the waters' which then flow out of the vulva.

Stage 2 - the birth of the foal

This stage lasts about 30 minutes and is a very explosive event (if it takes longer, call your vet immediately). The mare will lie down and have strong belly contractions that push the foal down the birth canal. The foal normally comes through the vulva in the following way.

• Front feet first, one slightly in front of the other, hooves facing down.
• Followed by the nose, head, neck, shoulders etc.
• The foal is usually delivered on its side, hind legs to the level of the hock inside the vagina, with the umbilical cord intact.
• If the foal is coming differently to this sequence, contact your vet immediately.

Do not intervene when the foal is delivered unless there is something wrong (see below). The foal will be covered in the birth membranes (amnion) which often breaks at the moment of delivery and which the mare will lick and nibble off: this is an important bonding process between the mare and foal and also stimulates the foal to breathe, stand up and suck. If the membrane is covering the foal's mouth and nose and the mare does not clean it away immediately, then remove it and clear the foal's nostrils and mouth of any mucus yourself so that the foal can breathe freely. Watch carefully for normal breathing. The umbilical cord attaching the foal to the mare usually breaks when the foal struggles to rise or the mare gets up. It is preferable for it to break naturally, so do not try to break it yourself, or disturb the mare so that it breaks early. The umbilical stump (the foal's navel) will need treating with a disinfectant, several times during the first 24 hours of life, to prevent infection. Ask your vet for an appropriate product to use.

Stage 3 - the afterbirth is expelled

This can last 1-2 hours, but usually occurs within 1 hour of foaling. If it has not been expelled within 3 hours consult your vet and tie up any membranes which are protruding from the vulva so that the mare does  not step on them or tear them. Keep the afterbirth (placenta Membranes) because it can provide your vet with valuable information about the birth. If some of the afterbirth is retained within the mare this can lead to serious post-foaling problems for her, e.g. Laminitis and womb infections (Metritis).

What Are The Signs That Something Is Wrong

Foaling difficulties occur in only 4-6% of births. These can be life-threatening to the mare and foal and also can prevent the mare from having further successful pregnancies.

Signs to look for are:

• Prolonged stage 1 or particularly stage 2 labour. If either of these stages is prolonged by even a short amount of time, there is much less chance of having a healthy foal.
• Incorrect presentation of the foal.

How Do I Care For The Newborn Foal?

Remember that foaling is a natural process and try to intervene as little as possible. This is especially important with maiden (first Foaling) mares or nervous mares. Give the mare and foal time to rest and establish a strong maternal bond. If you must be with them, do not put yourself between the mare and the foal. The foal should stand within 1-2 hours and suckle 1-3 hours after birth. If the foal takes longer than this it may be a sign that something is wrong so contact your vet for advice. The foal should urinate and pass its first faeces (meconium) during the first day. If the foal begins straining and switching its tail with no sign of manure, it may need veterinary assistance to enable the manure to be passed. Your vet may recommend a physical examination to check for any deformities and a blood test to check the foal has good levels of antibodies, on the day after birth.

What Follow-Up Care Does My Mare Need?

Watch her carefully for any abnormal signs, e.g. colic, lack of interest in the foal, profuse bloody discharge from the vulva, appearance of manure at the vulval lips, inability or reluctance to stand. It is a good idea to take her temperature twice daily as any increase may be an early indication of infection (normal temperature is 99.5 - 100.5 degrees F). Provide your mare with good quality hay, hard feed and grass to encourage her milk production. Check her udder for signs of mastitis (heat, swelling, pain) or inadequate milk production (empty).
 

Nutrition - Keeping Your Horse On Top Form

The combination of the right diet and correct workload should keep your horse in good condition. A horse's condition will vary depending on it's breed, age and workload. Before you can begin what to feed your horse, you need to check if he is already in good condition or if he needs to lose or gain weight.

What does good condition mean?

A horse in good condition will have the following qualities:

• A firm neck with no crest but be careful not to confuse a crest with a well-muscled topline.
• The ribs should be covered but still felt - the horse's coat thickness should be taken into account.
• There should be no crease along the back and spinous processses should be felt.
• The rump of the horse should be rounded with a cover of fat, but the pelvis felt where the skin is supple.

Make sure you take a good luck at your horse before making a final decision on his condition. Condition scoring tables are available and these are very useful when assessing condition.

What Should A Daily Feed Include?

You are what you eat...and so is your horse. A balanced diet is essential to keep your horse happy and healthy. The correct diet will ensure your horse retains a healthy coat, skin, bones, muscles and feet. A healthy diet will also ensure your horse remains sound and has plenty of energy. There are five main parts to a horse's diet, these include:

• Water: horses should have a constant supply of fresh, clean water.
  Requirements range from 22.7 - 90.9 litres/day (5-20 gallons/day) depending on workload, amount of food eaten, environmental temperatures etc.
• Energy: energy is a fuel supplied in the form of carbohydrates, e.g. cereal starch from oats, barley, etc and from digestible fibre from forage. Fats are also now used as a concentrated supplier of energy. Fat and digestible fibre are slow release energy sources, whereas cereal starches are fast release.
• Protein: this is essential for maintaining and developing healthy body tissue, such as muscle. It is supplied in the form of pasture grass, hay or haylage.
• Minerals: the most important minerals include: calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, sodium, chloride and potassium. Also vital trace minerals, e.g. copper, zinc and selenium are required in much smaller quantities. All of these should be supplied in compound feeds when fed at the recommended levels.
• Vitamins: fresh forage is a major source of vitamins and most needs are met when horses have access to good quality haylage or grazing. Vitamin A is the most commonly supplemented vitamin in food to aid good production and growth. Vitamin E is also widely supplemented to avoid muscle degeneration. Vitamin B is also used to supplement working horses because of its energetic qualities. Hay loses its vitamin content within six months of harvesting.

Forage (hay or grass) should be the base of your horse's diet. There are two types, these include:

• Legumes: alfalfa, clover, etc. These are higher in protein, calcium and potassium than grass.
• Grass: of many varieties, are lower in nutrients than legumes, but are still vital for a balanced diet.

In order to maintain a balanced diet, concentrates may need to be fed to provide the nutrients that are missing from bad quality forages. This is very common in winter when extra energy is needed for body warmth: when additional hay or haylage is not sufficient, more concentrates should be fed to maintain bodyweight. Commercial feeds/concentrates are very common, these are already prepared with a variety of ingredients for a balanced diet. They include:

• Straight cereals, e.g. oats, barley.
• Grass meal.
• Soya.
• Vitamin/mineral concentrate pellets.
• Fibre sources.
• Wheat feed.
• Oat feed.

How Do I Calculate Feeding Rations?

First of all you need to find out how much your horse weighs. There are three main ways of doing this:

Weigh scale: this is the most accurate method. Weigh scales are usually found at veterinary surgeries, racing yards and studs.
Weight tape: a simple and effective method. The tapes come with full instructions for use and can be purchased from most tack and feed shops and ourselves.
Calculator: calculators are also available which are simple and easy to use, although expensive.

Once you have established the weight of your horse you need to evaluate his workload. There are four main categories:

• Maintenance: horses and ponies at rest.
• Light work, this includes:

                Hacking for 1-2 hours/day.
                Novice dressage.
                Novice show jumping.
                Novice show level.

• Medium work, this includes:

               Affiliated working hunter classes.
               Endurance horses (up to 50 miles).
               Intermediate dressage.
               Intermediate show jumping: grade A and B etc.
               Novice and intermediate one-day eventers.
               Racehorses (fast canter work).

• Hard work, this includes:
                
      Advanced dressage.
      Endurance horses (up to 100 miles).
      Hunters (1-2 days/week).
      Racehorses in training/point to point/Flat racing.

Now you can calculate the feeding rations - see table below for estimated concentrate feed/forage ratios in Kg depending on your horse's bodyweight.

Feeding Tips....

• Feed little and often. The digestive system is not designed to cope with more than 2.3 kg (5lb) of concentrates in a single feed, so larger horses in heavy work may need to be fed a minimum of three times a day.
• Create a feeding routine that your horse can get used to - horses are creatures of habit.
• If you need to change your feed, you should do it over a period of 7-10 days, so that your horse's digestive system adjusts to change with no adverse effects or reactions. Any new feed should be mixed with the old feed, gradually increasing the new and decreasing the old by equal amounts over the 7-10 days.
• Feed plenty of hay or haylage, particularly in the winter when pasture grass, even if it looks plentiful, does not have the nutritional value it does during the summer months. This will also keep your horse warm. Avoid mouldy or very dusty hay. If you wish, you may soak hay in water for a maximum of 20 minutes for feeding, if soak it for any longer it will start to lose its nutritional value. The more good quality forage you feed the less likely it is that your horse will suffer from digestive problems.
• The provision of a salt or mineral block is also important.
• DO NOT feed your horse immediately before or after exercise, allow an hour or so for your horse to rest and cool down. This is also true for the provision of water AFTER exercise.

If your horse does not drink enough water he may become dehydrated or get impaction colic, particularly in the winter when the water is very cold. This can be avoided in various ways.

        Warming up the water for stabled horses if possible.
        Feed succulent food, e.g. soaked sugar beet pulp, to encourage water intake.
        Make sure any ice is broken in the trough for grass kept horses during the winter and place more than one source of water around the field to avoid the areas
        around the troughs becoming muddy and unpleasant for your horse to walk on.
        Add some salt to your horse's diet or provide a salt block.
 

Colic - a serious belly ache

Colic is a word that every horse owner dreads. Unfortunately, most horses will suffer from colic at some point and it is essential for you to know how to identify the symptoms and what to do next. Although the majority of colic cases resolve with minimal help, getting veterinary attention at the right moment can mean the difference between life and death for your horse.

What is Colic?

Colic is not a disease but is a word used to describe signs that indicate pain in the belly (or abdomen) in the horse.

How Do I Know My Horse Has Colic?

Signs of mild colic:

        Pawing or scraping the ground.
        Turning the head to look at the abdomen ('flank watching').
        Kicking or biting at the abdomen.
        Stretching out as if needing to urinate.
        Restlessness - getting up and down frequently.

If the bout of colic progresses, the symptoms your horse shows will worsen.

Signs of severe colic:

• Sweating
• Rolling
• Sitting down like a dog
• Lying on his back
• Inability to stand
• Rapid respiration rate (sometimes with flared nostrils: normal - 8-20 breaths per minute)
• Elevated pulse rate (more than 52 beats per minute)
• Red colouration of gums and eyes

What Causes Colic?

There are many possible causes of colic and often it is impossible to determine the exact cause. Rather surprisingly, the anatomy of the horse's digestive system (gut) is rather poorly designed for its job and therefore colic is quite a common problem. It can be brought on by changes in management such as:

• Changes in diet
• Changes in stabling and or bedding
• Change in exercise level

Certain physical conditions can predispose horses to colic, for e.g. a heavy intestinal worm burden, teeth problems and scrotal hernias in colts.

What Should I Do If I Think My Horse Has Colic?

While some cases resolve with simple care and management by the owner, others require veterinary attention and possibly surgery. Unfortunately, a small number of horses with colic do not recover. The success of surgical treatment is heavily dependent on the length of time between the first signs of colic and veterinary intervention. Any unnecessary delay will greatly reduce the chances of recovery. It is therefore essential to recognise when veterinary attention is needed.

If Your Horse Is Only Showing Signs of Mild Colic:

• Remove hay and feed (not water) and monitor closely. It is worth taking a temperature, pulse and respiration every 30 minutes and keeping a record of these.
• It may be helpful to walk your horse slowly for 5 minutes every half hour as the exercise will encourage gut function and help keep your horse relaxed.
• Check the stable for any sharp objects that may injure your horse if it rolls and remove them.
• Add extra bedding.
• Traditionally horse owners have been instructed to stop a horse with colic from rolling. If the colic is mild and your horse simply wants to lie down and rest this will do it no harm.
• If your horse is becoming more violent and is trying to lie and roll then your vet should be called. At this point walking your horse may help to prevent it rolling. However - it is safer for your horse (and you) to roll in it's stable than go down in the yard.
• DO NOT ADMINISTER ANY DRUGS (INC. WORMERS) UNLESS INSTRUCTED TO DO SO BY YOUR VET. DRUGS CAN MASK SYMPTOMS AND PREVENT ACCURATE DIAGNOSIS.

If Your Horse is Showing Signs of Severe Colic:

• Contact your vet immediately and describe the signs and duration of the colic.

DO NOT PUT YOURSELF AT RISK OF INJURY IF YOUR HORSE IS ROLLING - STAY WELL BACK.

What Will My Vet Do?

Your vet will ask about events leading up to the colic and about general management of your horse. He/she will want to observe the horse loose in the stable, as some horses do not exhibit signs of pain while being held. They will monitor the horse's vital signs such as temperature, pulse, respiratory rate etc. Your vet may sedate your horse at this point to continue with the examination:

• A stethoscope on the horse's flank will be used to listen for abnormal gut sounds (NB be quiet while they are doing this!).
• A stomach tube may be passed through the nose and down the throat to determine the presence of gas, fluid or food in the stomach. Horses cannot vomit so the release of trapped gas or fluid in this way is very important.
• An internal examination (rectal palpation) will be carried out to help identify problems with the intestine (gut). Even though only about 30-40% of the gut can be reached this way, this procedure provides your vet with a lot of information about the possible causes of colic in your horse.
• A blood sample may be taken to determine whether your horse is dehydrated.
• A sample of abdominal fluid (peritoneal fluid) may be taken by placing a needle into the belly. This is known as 'abdominal paracentesis' or 'abdominocentesis'. Peritoneal fluid lubricates the abdominal cavity and intestines. Normally the liquid is pale yellow and clear, but in colic cases this can change.

These procedures are important to assess the severity of the colic and to decide on the most suitable form of treatment. The examinations are usually well tolerated by horses and will not cause unnecessary discomfort.

What Will Happen Next?

Your vet , using the findings from the examination, will decide on the best treatment for your horse. This may be treatment with drugs or they may advise surgical treatment. If the colic is mild and your vet recommends drug therapy (medical treatment), you will need to check your horse regularly to ensure that the signs of colic are reducing. Your horse should be picking at hay within 1 hour. If the signs of colic persist, call your vet for advice. If surgery is recommended, your horse will need to be transported to a surgical facility which may be some distance away. Your vet may suggest that your horse travels with a stomach tube in place to relieve any pressure in the gut. He/she may also give your horse pain-killing drugs for the journey.
                           
How Can I Prevent My Horse From Getting Colic?

Remember that horses are predisposed to colic because of their abdominal anatomy and the way their gut functions. Although some colic conditions are unavoidable, there are steps you can take to reduce the chance of your horse developing colic.

Feed and Water

• Provide plenty of clean, fresh water at all times.
• Make dietary changes gradually over a couple of weeks.
• Divide daily feeds into 2 or smaller rations to avoid overloading the digestive system (horses should be fed little and often).
• Avoid feeding from the ground in areas of sandy soil. Sand can cause colic if accidentally eaten.
• Never allow your horse access to unsoaked sugar beet pulp.

Routine Health Care

• Ensure that your horse's teeth are checked regularly.
• Follow a regular worming programme recommended by your vet.
• Only give your horse medications and oral treatments after consulting your vet.

Paddocks and Stabling

• Keep to a routine - sudden changes in management are a common cause of colic.
• Pick up manure from paddocks regularly (this will help reduce worm infestations).
• Keep paddocks clear of ragwort, fallen tree branches or debris that your horse could accidentally eat.
• Do not overgraze in sandy soils.
• Watch your horse eating its bedding, especially if it is boxed for a period of time. Straw bedding may need to be changed to shredded paper or shavings.

Exercise

• Have a regular exercise regime and only change intensity on a gradual basis over a couple of weeks.
• Develop a daily routine and try not to change it abruptly - especially when the horse is away from home.
• Reduce stress, resulting from a heavy show season, lengthy travelling, overcrowded paddocks, etc.

Vaccinations - Essential Protection

Horses are susceptible to serious infectious diseases, e.g. influenza (flu), fortunately vaccines are available for some of these common conditions.

What is a vaccination?

A vaccination is an injection that stimulates an immune response against a specific disease.

A vaccination programme will ensure that your horse has maximum protection against these serious (and sometimes fatal) diseases. It will usually mean two injections at the start of the course followed by annual booster vaccinations for your horse. To provide your horse with full and continuing protection against these diseases it is essential that the course of vaccinations is completed.

Do I Have To Have My Horse Vaccinated?

Some owners give the excuse that vaccination is too expensive as the reason for not vaccinating their horse. Although courses of vaccinations and annual boosters may not be cheap, if your horse contracted one of these illnesses the cost of treatment would be considerably more expensive. These conditions can lead to a severely debilitated horse and if complications develop this can result in death.

If you wish to show, race or enter your horse in competitions it must be vaccinated against influenza according to the regulations of the event committee or organisation. This usually involves the presentation of an up-to-date vaccination certificate signed by a veterinary surgeon.

What Conditions Can Be Vaccinated Against?

Vaccinations are available for a number of diseases but some are only appropriate for horses that travel overseas for racing and competitions. The two most important vaccinations that every horse should receive are influenza and tetanus. There is also a vaccination against EQUINE HERPES VIRUS, which can cause abortion in pregnant mares. Contact your vet to discuss this if you are considering breeding from your mare.

Tetanus ('Lockjaw')

Tetanus is caused by a bacterium, clostridium tetani, which is found in soil and enters the horse's bloodstream via an open wound. Even small wounds can allow clostridium tetani contamination and because the incubation period is 7-21 days, the wound had usually healed by the time the first signs of the disease are apparent. Often owners are not aware that their horse has received a wound, or thought it minor and of no importance and yet their horse develops tetanus.

The signs of tetanus are:

• Vague stiffness in the head and limbs progressing to reluctance to move.
• Spasms in the muscles of the head and neck resulting in difficulty chewing, nostril flaring and a wide-eyed expression.
• 'Sardonic - smile' - the corners of the mouth are drawn back tightly.
• Erect ears.
• Trembling progressing to violent, whole body spasms in response to sudden movements or noise.

Approximately 90% of unvaccinated horses that develop tetanus die. In the small number of horses that do recover, intensive veterinary treatment and nursing care is required for a period of about 6 weeks.

Equine Influenza ('Flu')

This is a highly contagious, viral disease of the respiratory system caused by different strains of influenza virus. A horse contracts the virus either through contact with an infected horse, or indirectly by contaminated environments/air. Infected horses incubate the disease for 1-3 days before displaying any symptoms, which is why outbreaks of equine influenza spread so rapidly.

The symptoms of influenza include:

• A rise in temperature up to 41 degrees C (106 degrees F) for 1-3 days (often undetected).
• A harsh, dry cough of sudden onset that persists for 2-3 weeks or more.
• Clear nasal discharge progressing to thick, green-yellow discharge.
• Lethargy.
• Loss of appetite.

The disease can develop into life-threatening bronchitis or pneumonia. When horses recover from influenza, they can be left in a debilitated state making them more susceptible to secondary infections.

Outbreaks of influenza are most common when large numbers of young horses are brought together in stressful conditions, i.e. sales or shows.

Is Vaccination Dangerous?

NO, VACCINATION IS NOT DANGEROUS. There has been much discussion in the media about adverse reactions to vaccinations in pets which, unfortunately mostly been irresponsible scare mongering. Millions of horses have been vaccinated against tetanus and influenza over many years and the number of adverse reactions most are only local injection site reactions or mild muscle stiffness.

THE RISK TO YOUR HORSE OF CONTRACTING AND SUFFERING SERIOUS OR FATAL CONSEQUENCES OF TETANUS AND INFLUENZA IS MANY, MANY TIMES GREATER THAN THE RISK OF YOUR HORSE HAVING AN ADVERSE REACTION TO A VACCINATION.

Can I Still Ride My Horse?

You should try and reduce stress (e.g. Heavy exercise) on your horse for the 24-48 hours after vaccination. This will further reduce the very small chance of any adverse reaction.

My Horse Hates Needles - Is There Any Way Around This?

No - it is important to ensure that your horse is vaccinated. Very small needles are used and vaccination only takes a matter of seconds. Your vet will be used to vaccinating awkward horses!

There Are Lots of 'Approved' Vaccination Schedules - How Do I Know Which Is Best For My Horse?

Influenza Vaccination

Approved vaccination schedules for the influenza vaccine are published by the jockey club, International Equestrian Federation (FEI) and various show societies and committees and these form part of the entry requirements for horses competing or racing in their events. Unfortunately, these schedules differ between organisations and it is confusing for the owner to determine which they should follow. To complicate matters further, the manufacturers' of each vaccine recommend a different schedule again, based on the efficiency of their vaccines determined by clinical trials.

The manufacturers' recommendations provide your horse with the most protection against influenza and will satisfy Jockey Club, FEI and most racecourse, show committee regulations.

Manufacturers' recommendations are:

    a.        Primary Course        1st injection

                                              28-42 days later

    b.        2nd primary              2nd injection

                                              168 days later

    c.        3rd primary               3rd injection

Boosters annually thereafter, or during an outbreak or if in a high risk group (competing, showing, etc) may be given every 6 months.

Tetanus Vaccination

Most influenza vaccinations also contain the tetanus vaccine and if you follow the influenza vaccination schedule using a combined vaccine, your horse will also be protected against tetanus. When using separate vaccines, the schedule for tetanus vaccination is:

    a.        Primary Course        1st injection

                                             28 days later

    b.        2nd primary             2nd injection

First booster to be given within 365 days of the 2nd primary injection.

Further boosters needed every 1-2 years.

Pregnant mares should be given a tetanus booster in the last 4-6 weeks of pregnancy which will provide the foal with some protection through the milk for the first 6-12 weeks of life.

Foals can also be given an injection of tetanus antitoxin (an 'antidote' to the tetanus infection) as soon as possible after birth to provide temporary cover 3-4 weeks. This should be followed by another dose after 4 weeks. Regular tetanus vaccination can be started at 3 months old.

Bots

What are bots?

Bots are the larvae of the horse bot fly and are the most common parasite found in stomach of your horse. Their Latin name is Gasterophilus. There are several different species and they lay numerous tiny white eggs (about one or two millimetres long) on your horse's coat, mostly the forelegs and face but can also be found on the outside of the legs, the mane and on the flanks. Throat bot eggs are attached to the long hairs beneath the jaws. Nose bot eggs are stuck to the hairs on the upper and lower lips.

The bot lifecycle

"After the eggs hatch, the first-stage larvae get into your horse's mouth and burrow under the tongue.
"After several weeks developing in the tissues of the mouth, they migrate to the stomach where they attach using sharp mouth hooks and develop for many months.
"Next spring (or summer) the larvae detach and pass down through the gut. One particular species (Gasterophilus Haemorrhoidalis) will attach itself to the rectum before being passed out in the faeces.
"The larvae then enter the soil below the dung pile and pupate. After two weeks to two months, depending on the season, an adult fly will emerge, before mating and laying eggs.
"Adults do not have functional mouthparts so they cannot feed. Females go to horses only to lay their eggs. Most of the egg-laying is done during August and September but may continue until the first hard frost.

The problems with bots

Apart from the presence of the eggs on your horse's coat, you may not actually be aware your horse has bots. Unfortunately, they can be unpleasant for your horse:-

• The fast movements of these flies frighten animals.
• Horses tend to get very upset when the bot flies are actually laying eggs.
• Horses can injure themselves as they attempt to relieve the irritation from burrowing activities of newly hatched bots.
• The young (first stage) larvae can cause oral inflammation (stomatitis), sores and ulcers when burrowing in the mouth. This can result in pain when eating or make your horse shy of the bit.
• Stomach bots can cause inflammation of the stomach lining (gastritis), ulcers and impaired digestion. In severe cases they may cause colic, obstruct the gut, or even penetrate the stomach wall, with fatal results.
• G.Haemorrhoidalis can cause irritation and bleeding when they re-attach in the rectum.

How do I treat bots?

Traditionally, a single December dose was advised, using a drug that kills stomach bots. This was recommended because all the egg-laying adult flies would have been killed by the frosts, and all bots would be in the stomach. This was before the advent of more effective, and safer anthmintics.

A single December treatment for bots may not be adequate. Weather patterns are changing and we may not get a hard frost (capable of killing the adult flies) until later in the winter (possibly January or February). If you treat your horse before the bot flies have stopped egg-laying, then the larvae that hatch subsequently will still be capable of causing damage throughout the winter and into the spring.

Alternatively, if you delay until after the first frost, then the larval stages burrowing in your horse's mouth and stomach, are capable of causing problems. It is therefore important to use a product that is capable of killing all stages of bots during summer and autumn, whilst the bot flies are still active, and then again in January and February after the hard frost.
 

Questions and Answers

Q.  Is it safe for a horse to graze 24 hours a day?

A. No. If a horse grazes for that length of time the horses digestive system will be over-loaded and eventually cause illnesses like laminitis.

Q. Which variety of grass would be suitable for my horse?

A. Traditional long term meadow grazing not cattle pasture.

Q. What should I do if I need to improve my grass?

A. Seek advice from your local National Farmers Union.

Q. How much food should I feed my horse in the summer?

A. A horse that's grazing for 12 hours a day will only need a small amount of food depending on its workload, type and age.

Q. How can horses be protected from flies?

A. The easiest solution is to turn out the horses at night when the flies are inactive and/or apply fly repellent or use a fly sheet.

Q. How do you keep your horse cool in the summer?

A. Keep the horse in in the day in its stabling with sufficient ventilation.

Q. Does my horse need a salt lick?

A. Salt licks should be available and are best on the floor as long as they can be kept clean, then if the horse needs the salt they will take it.

Q. What should I do if my horse is sweating after work?

A. Using hand warm water and sponge, sponge off affected areas and towel dry or allow to dry and brush off sweat marks.

Q. How much water should I give my horse?

A. Horse should have fresh water available at all times.

Q. What should I do if my horse has sore eyes?

A. Make sure they are bathed regularly with tepid water using a clean cloth but if they are looking infected you must seek advise from your vet.

Q.  What do I do if my horse doesn't like me or is acting in an unusual behaviour?

A. This is a very complex subject. For professional advice please contact Sue Carr (please see 'Contact Us' page).      

Q. How often should the farrier trim my horses feet?

A. Every 6 weeks.

Q. How often should my horse have its teeth rasped?

A. In a healthy horse twice a year. Old or ill horses more frequently (seek advice from your vet).

Q. How often should my horse have their feet cleaned?

A. If the horse is living in for part of the day and out for the other part clean the feet when coming out of the field and whenever the horse is moved from different surfaces, if the horse is not moved into different surface then clean the feet twice a day.

Q. Does my horse need a friend?

A. Some horses are happy as long as they have a lot of human company but it is better for them to have company as they are herd animals. I f another horse is not available a sheep or a goat would be a good substitute.

Q. How do I know if my horse is bored?

A. Your horse will either be depressed and lethargic or hyperactive and trash the stable.

Q. What should I do about my horse being bored?

A. This is a very complex subject. For professional advice please contact Sue Carr (please see 'Contact Us' page).      

For any further questions or more in-depth information please do not hesitate to contact us using the 'Contact Us' page.